COURT 


MAKING  A 
TENNIS  COURT 


THE 

HOUSE  &  GARDEN 
MAKING 

BOOKS 

IT  is  the  intention  of  the  publishers  to  make 
this  series  of  little  volumes,  of  which  Making 
a  Tennis  Court  is  one,  a  complete  library  of 
authoritative  and  well  illustrated  handbooks 
dealing  with  the  activities  of  the  home-maker 
and  amateur  gardener.  Text,  pictures  and  dia- 
grams will,  in  each  respective  book,  aim  to 
make  perfectly  clear  the  possibility  of  having, 
and  the  means  of  having,  some  of  the  more 
important  features  of  a  modern  country  or  sub- 
urban home.  Among  the  titles  already  issued  or 
planned  for  early  publication  are  the  following : 
Making  a  Rose  Garden;  Making  a  Lawn;  Making 
a  Garden  to  Bloom  This  Year;  Making  a  Fire- 
place; Making  Paths  and  Driveways;  Making  a 
Poultry  House;  Making  a  Garden  with  Hotbed 
and  Coldframe;  Making  Built-in  Bookcases, 
Shelves  and  Seats;  Making  a  Rock  Garden; 
Making  a  Water  Garden;  Making  a  Perennial 
Border;  Making  the  Grounds  Attractive  with 
Shrubbery;  Making  a  Naturalized  Bulb  Garden; 
with  others  to  be  announced  later. 


MAKING  A 
TENNIS  COURT 

By  GEORGE   E.  WALSH 


NEW    YORK 

McBRIDE,   NAST  &  COMPANY 
1912 


COPYRIGHT,  1912,  BY 
McBRIDE,  NAST  &  CO. 


.9* 


Pablished  March,  1912 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

INTBODUCTION        .  .  1 


LOCATION 5 

KINDS  OF  COURTS          .        .  .  .12 

CONSTRUCTING  DIET  COURTS  .  .19 

CONSTRUCTING  GRASS  COURTS  .  .     25 

SIZES  AND  MARKING      .        .  .  .32 

BACKSTOPS  AND  NETS    .        .  .  .39 

CARE  OF  COURTS  ,     47 

250060 


THE     ILLUSTRATIONS 


A   TENNIS   COURT  AS   A    LANDSCAPE 

FEATURE     ....     Frontispiece 

FACING 
PAGE 

AVOID  FOLIAGE  AT  THE  ENDS  OF  THE 

COURT 6 

A  TYPICAL  DIRT  COUKT       .         .         .14 
A  TYPICAL  GRASS  COURT     .         .         .26 

A   COURT  ENCLOSED  BY  A  RETAINING 

WALL 34 

AN    INEXPENSIVE     AND     SERVICEABLE 

BACKSTOP 40 

THE  BACKSTOP  AS  AN  ARCHITECTURAL 

FEATURE  .     46 

A  SUGGESTION  FOR  THE    SPECTATORS' 

BENCH  .  50 


INTRODUCTION 

A  LTHOUGH  the  game  of  lawn  tennis 
-£*>  as  played  to-day  dates  back  only 
some  forty  to  forty-five  years,  it  is  in 
reality  one  of  the  oldest  of  all  existing  ball 
games.  The  origin  of  the  game  is  in- 
volved in  considerable  obscurity,  but  it  has 
numberless  historical  associations  which 
make  it  of  peculiar  interest. 

Tennis  was  mentioned  in  the  Arthurian 
romances,  and  it  was  quite  extensively 
played  in  Europe  in  the  Middle  Ages.  It 
was  played  upon  open  courts  in  the  parks 
or  ditches  of  the  feudal  castles  of  France 
and  Italy.  It  was  called,  in  Italy,  giuoco 
delta  palla;  in  Germany,  Ballspiel;  in 
France,  jew  de  paume;  and  in  Spain,  jugar 
al  able. 

The  French  borrowed  it  from  the 
Italians,  and  the  modern  word  "  tennis  " 


2  Introduction 

was  derived  from  the  French  exclamation 
of  Tenez!  that  was  employed  in  serving 
the  ball.  It  was  a  game  of  kings  and 
nobles.  Originally  a  cork  ball  was  used, 
and  this  was  struck  with  the  palm  of  the 
hand.  A  bank  of  earth  was  used  instead 
of  a  net.  The  first  appearance  of  the 
racket  is  uncertain,  but  in  the  time  of 
Henry  VII  the  hand  sometimes  met  the 
racket  on  the  royal  courts  of  Windsor. 

Major  Walter  C.  Wingfield,  of  the 
British  army,  practically  modernized  and 
popularized  tennis.  He  patented  his  game 
in  1874.  It  was  played  on  a  court  60  x  30 
feet,  shaped  very  much  like  an  hour-glass. 
In  this  early  game  of  tennis,  the  net  was 
7  feet  high  at  the  ends,  but  sagged  gradu- 
ally toward  the  center  to  a  height  of 
4  feet  8  inches. 

The  Marylebone  Cricket  Club,  of  Lord's, 
formulated  the  first  official  laws  and  rules 
for  governing  the  game  in  1875,  and  the 
official  name  of  "  lawn  tennis  "  was  then 


Introduction  3 

first  adopted.  This  club  set  the  official 
length  of  the  court  at  78  feet.  The  width 
of  the  court  was  30  feet  at  the  base-lines 
and  £4<  feet  at  the  nets,  which  showed 
that  the  hour-glass  formation  was  still 
adhered  to.  The  net  itself  was  4  feet  high 
in  the  center  and  5  feet  at  the  posts. 

From  that  time  to  the  present,  changes 
have  been  gradually  made,  both  in  the 
rules  and  the  formation  of  the  courts. 
The  net  was  gradually  lowered  and  made 
uniform  throughout  its  length,  and  the  old 
hour-glass  formation  was  abandoned. 

Lawn  tennis  was  brought  into  this  coun- 
try the  same  year  it  appeared  in  England, 
1874.  The  first  court  was  laid  out  at 
Nahant,  near  Boston,  on  private  grounds, 
and  others  soon  appeared  at  Newport, 
Staten  Island,  and  near  Philadelphia.  The 
game  grew  rapidly  in  popularity  until  tens 
of  thousands  of  people,  young  and  old, 
were  following  it  as  one  of  the  most  fas- 
cinating of  outdoor  recreations. 


4  Introduction 

To-day  it  is  one  of  the  most  popular  of 
our  outdoor  games  for  both  sexes,  and  it 
has  retained  its  hold  upon  the  public  for 
a  good  many  years  in  spite  of  the  intro- 
duction of  other  games  and  the  craze  for 
novelties.  Tennis  gives  just  the  right 
amount  of  exhilarating  exercise  in  the  open 
air  that  one  seems  to  need,  and  there  are 
hundreds  of  thousands  of  devotees  of  the 
game  who  play  it  regularly  throughout 
the  season. 

But  the  possibilities  of  making  the  ten- 
nis court  a  great  social  adjunct  to  the 
country  place  are  not  always  fully  appre- 
ciated by  those  who  follow  the  game.  Pri- 
marily the  courts  are  laid  out  for  practical 
use,  but  this  should  not  interfere  with  their 
artistic  development  to  make  them  attrac- 
tive features  of  the  garden.  If  one  has 
the  land  sufficient  for  a  tennis  court,  it 
should  be  utilized  with  the  idea  of  making 
it  a  pleasant  place  for  quiet  rest  and  recre- 
ation on  warm  days. 


Making  a  Tennis  Court 

LOCATION 

rflHE  site  for  the  tennis  court  should 
•*-  have  a  perfectly  unobstructed  space 
of  not  less  than  60  by  120  feet,  and  its 
location  should  be  as  conveniently  near 
the  house  as  the  topography  and  land- 
scape architecture  will  permit.  The  game 
is  one  that  is  best  played  in  summer  in 
semi-negligee  attire,  and  if  the  courts  are 
within  a  reasonable  distance  of  the  house 
there  will  be  no  necessity  for  lockers  and 
dressing  rooms.  If  possible  a  broad  ter- 
race should  come  between  the  court  and 
the  house,  or,  if  it  can  be  connected  with 
the  garden  by  a  broad  walk,  so  much  the 
better.  If  the  country  residence  is  perched 
on  the  top  or  side  of  a  hill,  it  may  be 
necessary  to  make  the  court  some  distance 
5 


6  Making  a  Tennis  Court 

away  on  account  of  the  lack  of  sufficient 
level  area.  The  architectural  features  of 
the  house  and  grounds  should  in  every 
instance  be  carefully  considered  in  de- 
signing tennis  courts,  and  if  the  latter  are 
made  to  harmonize  with  the  former  the 
result  is  very  pleasing  to  the  eye. 

The  court  should  be  constructed  on  a 
site  where  there  is  always  plenty  of  sun- 
light, but  there  should  never  be  any  very 
light  background.  A  light  stucco  house, 
for  instance,  or  an  Italian  terrace  of  mar- 
ble, would  make  the  worst  possible  back- 
grounds for  a  court  if  located  very  near 
it.  A  light  background  confuses  the  play- 
ers and  often  makes  it  impossible  for  the 
eyes  to  follow  the  ball. 

The  site  of  the  court  should  be,  so  far 
as  possible,  level  and  with  natural  drain- 
age, but  if  these  conditions  are  not  pres- 
ent they  may  be  obtained  by  careful  grad- 
ing and  artificial  drainage.  They  increase 
the  cost  of  building  the  court  consider- 


Location  7 

ably,  and  it  may  therefore  be  a  question 
of  abandoning  an  otherwise  ideal  site  for 
another  which  is  more  level  and  better 
drained.  A  court  should  never  be  located 
in  a  hollow  where  the  surrounding  land 
slopes  from  all  directions  toward  it.  No 
amount  of  artificial  drainage  could  keep 
such  a  spot  dry.  A  series  of  grass  ter- 
races leading  down  to  the  court  need  not 
interfere  with  its  construction  if  the  land 
slopes  away  from  the  court  in  other  direc- 
tions. A  blind  ditch  or  drain  can  be  built 
at  the  bottom  of  the  last  terrace  so  that 
surplus  water  will  be  carried  away  from 
the  court. 

The  site  should  be  selected  also  accord- 
ing to  the  nature  of  the  soil,  other  things 
being  equal.  A  rocky  foundation  means 
a  good  deal  of  expense  in  blasting  and 
hauling  of  material  for  the  foundation.  A 
very  thick  clay  soil  that  holds  the  water 
a  long  time  is  equally  unsuited  for  the 
court,  and  the  expense  of  construction  is 


8          Making  a  Tennis  Court 

increased  by  hauling  this  away  and  re- 
placing it  with  a  more  porous  dressing. 
A  natural,  fairly  sandy  soil  that  is  well 
drained  is  the  ideal  for  the  court,  and 
when  this  is  present  the  cost  of  construc- 
tion will  be  comparatively  light. 

But  usually  the  site  has  to  be  selected 
without  much  regard  to  the  natural  soil 
conditions.  If  the  site  is  satisfactory  in 
other  particulars  it  is  probably  more  eco- 
nomical in  the  end  to  choose  it  and  then 
attend  to  the  drainage  question  later.  No 
court  will  ever  amount  to  much  unless  it 
is  well  drained  and  well  constructed,  and 
these  are  points  that  will  be  considered  in 
detail  later.  The  chief  considerations  in 
selecting  a  site  for  a  court  are,  therefore, 
space,  light,  and  drainage. 

A  fact  not  always  appreciated  by  ama- 
teurs in  laying  out  tennis  courts  is  that 
by  laying  the  courts  due  north  and  south, 
the  disadvantage  of  playing  with  the  sun 
in  the  eyes  is  avoided.  When  laid  east 


Location  9 

and  west  one  player  must  always  face  the 
sun,  which,  of  course,  is  a  handicap.  If 
the  court  is  laid  north  and  south  the  sun 
is  never  in  the  way  either  morning  or 
afternoon. 

The  tennis  court  should  not  be  inclosed 
by  trees  on  all  sides.  That  is  a  mistake 
commonly  made.  The  trees  should  be 
planted  only  on  the  west  side  of  the  courts, 
and  not  on  the  north  and  south  side. 
The  foliage  of  the  trees  hampers  the 
players  in  seeing  the  ball,  especially  to- 
wards night.  The  ball  stands  out  more 
clearly  against  a  background  of  blue  sky 
than  a  background  of  green  foliage.  The 
trees  on  the  west  furnish  shade  without 
thus  interfering  with  the  players. 

If  trees  crowd  too  closely  to  the  court 
they  make  the  surface  damp,  and  in  wet 
weather  it  may  be  impossible  to  play  for 
days  at  a  time.  If  the  court  is  free  from 
shade  on  the  east  side,  the  morning  sun 
will  dry  up  the  surface  after  a  rain,  so 


io        Making  a  Tennis  Court 

that  playing  can  be  resumed  in  the  after- 
noon. 

All  of  these  points  in  laying  out  a  tennis 
court  may  seem  simple  and  plain  to  any 
one  when  consideration  is  given  to  them, 
but  failure  to  observe  them  often  causes 
an  endless  amount  of  annoyance.  For  in- 
stance, one  of  the  best  tennis  clubs  in  the 
country  had  its  courts  laid  out  running 
east  and  west,  and  the  difficulty  of  play- 
ing with  the  sun  in  the  eyes  caused  so 
much  trouble  that  the  courts  had  to  be 
rebuilt.  There  was  no  reason,  except  over- 
sight, why  they  were  laid  out  wrongly  in 
the  first  place. 

Another  club  which  had  its  grass  courts 
laid  out  with  a  dense  growth  of  trees  a 
few  yards  back  from  the  courts,  on  the 
east  side,  finally  came  to  the  conclusion 
that  they  either  had  to  rearrange  the 
courts  or  chop  down  some  of  the  trees. 
The  morning  shade  of  the  trees  kept 
the  courts  from  drying  up  quickly  so 


Location  1 1 

often  that  the  players  became  disgusted. 
Beautiful  mornings  would  dawn  after  a 
rainstorm,  and  the  players  would  antici- 
pate fine  afternoons  of  tennis ;  but  the 
courts  were  too  wet  until  very  late  in  the 
day. 

Like  everything  else,  there  is  a  right 
and  wrong  way  of  laying  out  courts,  and 
if  one  is  doing  it  as  a  permanent  fixture 
of  the  grounds  a  little  care  and  attention 
to  these  details  will  add  a  hundred  per 
cent,  to  the  value  and  increase  the  com- 
fort of  players  and  spectators. 


KINDS  OF  COURTS 

nnENNIS  can  be  played  on  almost  any 
-*•  smooth,  even  surface,  either  indoors 
or  outdoors,  and  the  question  of  securing 
in  the  best  way  the  most  desirable  sur- 
face for  the  courts  is  one  that  has  at- 
tracted a  good  deal  of  expert  attention. 
While  a  lawn  is  considered  the  ideal  place 
for  playing  the  game  on  home  courts, 
tennis  clubs  and  associations  have  more 
generally  adopted  the  clay  or  dirt  court. 
One  reason  for  this  is  that  the  surface 
is  not  so  easily  scarred  by  the  feet  of 
the  players,  and  its  maintenance  in  per- 
fect condition  is  easier  where  its  use  is 
almost  continuous  throughout  the  season. 
But  conditions  vary  in  every  country 
and  in  parts  of  our  own  land,  and  ideal 
turf  and  clay  courts  are  not  always  so 
12 


Kinds  of  Courts  13 

easy  of  construction  where  needed.  Con- 
sequently we  find  many  attempts  made  to 
build  courts  of  other  materials.  In  Aus- 
tralia, for  instance,  they  have  for  years 
built  courts  of  cracked  bluestone.  The 
great  abundance  of  this  material  in  that 
country  is  responsible  for  its  general 
use.  The  foundation  of  the  court  is  made 
of  bluestone  of  considerable  size,  and  the 
surface  was  finished  off  with  very  finely 
cracked  bluestone.  Such  a  court  is  hard 
and  durable,  but  it  has  the  disadvantage 
of  being  hard  on  the  feet  and  upon  balls. 
In  fact,  many  tennis  experts  refuse  to 
play  in  tournaments  held  on  courts  con- 
structed of  such  material. 

In  England  many  of  the  tennis  courts 
were  made  of  brick  rubble,  which  is  really 
a  cheaper  substitute  for  the  Australian 
material  of  bluestone.  An  English  court 
made  of  this  material  has  the  further  dis- 
advantage of  being  very  dirty,  and  the 
players  dislike  it  very  much.  Cinder  is 


14         Making  a  Tennis  Court 

another  material  that  has  been  used  both 
in  England  and  in  this  country  for  tennis 
courts,  but  it  has  never  been  popular.  It 
makes  such  a  gritty  surface  that  the  feet 
of  the  players  become  sore  after  a  few 
sets. 

Along  the  Jersey  shore,  tennis  is  popu- 
lar, but  conditions  are  unfavorable  for  the 
construction  of  either  a  turf  or  clay  court. 
The  soil  consists  chiefly  of  a  heavy  muck 
underneath,  with  a  surface  of  fine  beach 
sand,  or  it  is  composed  almost  entirely 
of  sand.  The  building  of  clay  courts  in 
such  localities  necessitated  the  complete 
removal  of  the  soil  to  a  depth  of  nearly 
two  feet,  and  the  importation  of  clay  from 
some  distance.  The  fine  seashore  sand  was 
used  as  a  top-dressing.  This  sort  of  court 
has  rarely  proved  satisfactory.  The  fine 
seashore  sand  works  loose  too  easily  under 
the  action  of  the  feet  of  the  players,  and 
the  court  soon  showed  unevenness.  In 
order  to  use  the  seashore  sand  for  surfac- 


o 

E 


3.1 

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a* 
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I 

n 


5 

•o 


Kinds  of  Courts  15 

ing,  it  is  necessary  to  mix  it  with  a  large 
proportion  of  clay  for  a  binder.  If  the 
proper  mixture  is  obtained  the  surface  is 
rendered  fairly  durable.  Usually  this  pro- 
portion must  be  as  high  as  two  or  three 
parts  of  clay  to  one  of  sand.  Any  larger 
proportion  than  two  to  one  makes  the 
drainage  bad.  There  is  not  sufficient  sand 
to  make  the  surface  porous,  and  water 
collects,  making  the  court  useless  for  some 
time  after  every  rainstorm. 

Nevertheless,  some  very  fair  courts  have 
been  made  by  using  a  foundation  of  cin- 
ders, and  top-dressing  with  three  inches 
of  seashore  sand  and  clay.  In  selecting 
the  sand  for  this  purpose,  the  coarsest 
found  on  the  seashore  should  be  chosen. 
The  finest  sand  mixes  with  the  clay  without 
making  it  porous. 

We  have  also  concrete,  cement,  and 
asphalt  tennis  courts,  but  few  of  them  are 
really  satisfactory.  They  all  have  the  dis- 
advantage of  being  hard  on  the  feet  and 


1 6        Making  a  Tennis  Court 

the  balls.  The  concrete  and  cement  courts 
are,  furthermore,  very  hard  on  the  eyes. 
The  white  glare  of  the  surface  on  sunny 
days  frequently  causes  players  to  desist 
after  a  few  games.  Asphalt  is  not  so  hard 
on  the  eyes,  but  it  is  not  an  ideal  material 
for  tennis  courts.  It  is  very  expensive, 
to  begin  with,  and  it  is  too  easily  affected 
by  heat  and  cold.  On  hot  days  it  some- 
times gets  too  soft,  and  even  sticky  to 
the  feet,  for  expert  playing.  In  winter 
it  is  liable  to  crack  with  the  frost,  al- 
though this  may  be  obviated  if  it  is  prop- 
erly laid  with  a  foundation  of  stones  and 
cinders. 

There  is  one  other  material  that  has 
been  tried  for  tennis  courts  that  is  receiv- 
ing considerable  attention.  This  is  wood. 
Indoor  tennis  in  the  winter  season  has 
long  been  popular  among  lovers  of  the 
game,  and  armories  and  other  large  build- 
ings have  been  utilized  as  shelter.  The 
courts  here  are  naturally  laid  out  on 


Kinds  of  Courts  17 

wooden  floors.  Fairly  good  tennis  can  be 
played  on  these,  as  there  is  more  give 
and  resiliency  to  wood  than  to  concrete 
or  cement,  and  it  is  not  nearly  so  hard 
on  the  feet  or  balls. 

The  popularity  of  indoor  tennis  on 
wooden  floors  has  led  to  the  construction 
of  wooden  courts  outdoors  for  winter  play- 
ing. A  properly  constructed  wooden  court 
can  be  used  all  through  the  cold  weather. 
Mud  and  water  cannot  interfere  with  the 
players.  Snow  can  be  removed,  and  the 
courts  are  immediately  ready  for  playing. 

An  outdoor  wooden  court  for  winter 
use  is  rather  an  expensive  work,  for  a 
solid  foundation  must  be  made  of  broken 
stones  and  small  pebbles,  topped  off  with 
a  layer  of  concrete.  Then  the  wooden 
floor  is  laid  on  top  of  this.  The  wooden 
courts  are  in  process  of  evolution  for 
outdoor  use,  and  the  most  satisfactory  way 
of  building  them  is  still  disputed.  One 
way  is  to  use  wooden  blocks  or  squares 


1  8         Making  a  Tennis  Court 

set  up  on  end,  so  that  the  grain  of  the 
wood  runs  up  and  down.  Wooden  pave- 
ments have  long  been  made  in  this  way, 
and  they  stand  heavy  traffic  and  constant 
use.  There  is  no  danger  then  from  splin- 
ters, and  they  are  very  durable.  The 
blocks  are  set  close  together,  and  the  sur- 
face smoothed  off  with  a  floor  scraper. 

\  If  the  court  is  worn  in  places,  the  surface 

^ 


be  scraped  off  at  no  great  cost  by 
a  modern  floor  scraper.  But  the  wooden 
surface  must  be  laid  on  a  solid  foundation 
that  will  not  be  affected  by  the  frost,  or 
the  wooden  blocks  will  be  thrown  out  of 
line.  Also,  the  surface  must  be  raised 
above  the  surrounding  land  so  that  water 
will  not  settle  on  the  courts.  The  wooden 
tennis  courts  will  undoubtedly  become 
more  and  more  popular  for  clubs  as  the 
demand  for  winter  outdoor  playing  in- 
creases. Improvements  will  then  be  grad- 
ually made  as  experience  teaches. 


CONSTRUCTING  DIRT  COURTS 

A  PROPERLY  constructed  clay  court 
JL\  is  usually  more  expensive  than  a 
turf  court5  for  the  ground  must  be  ex- 
cavated to  a  depth  of  eight  or  ten  inches 
so  that  a  foundation  can  be  made  of  stones, 
cinders,  or  gravel.  The  drainage  prob- 
lem is  one  of  the  most  important  in  lay- 
ing out  clay  courts,  and,  if  overlooked, 
the  most  promising  court  will  soon  be- 
come a  place  for  pools  to  collect.  In 
time  it  will  settle  in  spots  and  need  con- 
stant repairs  to  keep  it  in  any  kind  of 
condition.  While  it  may  take  a  good  en- 
gineer to  build  a  clay  court  suitable  for 
professional  playing,  a  novice  can  do  work 
that  is  suitable  for  all  ordinary  purposes. 
As  the  cost  of  building  one  is  largely  due 
to  the  labor  item,  it  may  be  achieved  at 
19 


2O        Making  a  Tennis  Court 

one-third  the  total  expense  through  the 
cooperation  of  several  members  of  the  fam- 
ily in  excavating  and  hauling  material  to 
the  site. 

To  make  a  good  dirt  court  it  will  be 
necessary  first  to  dig  off  the  surface  to 
a  depth  of  at  least  one  foot,  and  level  it 
roughly  with  a  spirit  level.  The  cost  of 
this  excavation  in  ordinary  dirt  is  not 
more  than  ten  or  fifteen  dollars,  but  where 
rocks  must  be  blasted  away  the  cost  may 
be  five  or  six  times  as  much. 

After  leveling  the  foundation,  a  six-inch 
layer  of  trap-rock,  such  as  is  used  in  mac- 
adamizing roads,  or  any  broken  stones 
ranging  in  size  from  a  walnut  to  an  egg, 
should  be  placed  in  the  excavation.  This 
must  be  leveled  off  also  to  keep  the  grade. 
An  uneven  tennis  court  will  never  give 
satisfaction.  Before  the  next  layer  of 
gravel  is  placed  on  the  trap-rock,  provi- 
sion must  be  made  for  drainage.  There 
are  several  methods  of  draining  a  court, 


Constructing  Dirt  Courts        21 

depending  greatly  upon  the  nature  of  the 
soil  and  the  preference  of  the  owners. 

For  ordinary  soil  a  good  method  is  to 
lay  the  drain  pipe  near  the  net  and  at 
right  angles  to  the  courts,  dividing  them 
in  half.  The  drain  pipe  may  consist  of 
terra  cotta  sewer  pipes  cut  in  half  or 
terra  cotta  gutters,  such  as  are  used  on 
tiled  roofs.  They  are  laid  parallel  with 
the  net  and  filled  with  loose  stones.  The 
drains  are  tilted  sufficiently  to  carry  the 
water  off  at  the  sides  or  to  a  receptacle 
in  the  center.  Sometimes  a  barrel  is  sunk 
in  the  middle  and  filled  with  stones,  and 
the  drain  pipes  empty  into  it. 

Another  common  method  is  to  drain  the 
courts  at  the  end.  In  this  case  the  court 
at  the  net  is  two  inches  higher  than  at 
the  ends,  and  on  porous  soil  this  will  be 
sufficient  to  carry  off  the  water.  When 
the  drain  pipe  is  placed  near  the  net  the 
tilt  from  the  ends  toward  the  center  should 
be  from  one  to  two  inches. 


22        Making  a  Tennis  Court 

We  have  more  difficult  drainage  prob- 
lems in  very  thick  loam  and  clay  soils. 
Artificial  drainage  of  a  more  elaborate 
nature  is  required  here,  or  else  the  courts 
will  be  muddy  and  sticky  for  days  after 
rainstorms.  Drain  pipes  must  be  laid 
under  the  courts  at  various  places,  and 
tilted  toward  one  particular  point.  The 
open  drain  pipes  are  laid  down  before  the 
trap-rock  is  placed,  and  filled  with  broken 
stones  so  they  will  not  clog  up  with  dirt. 
Two  or  three  of  these  lines  of  open  pipe 
should  be  placed  on  either  side  of  the 
net.  They  should  run  from  the  ends  of 
the  courts  toward  the  net  and  drain  into 
the  gutter  that  has  been  placed  under  the 
net.  The  number  of  these  drain  pipes 
depends  upon  the  sticky  nature  of  the 
soil.  Four  parallel  rows  of  them  on  either 
side  of  the  net  should  be  sufficient  for  the 
poorest  kind  of  soil. 

When  the  drain  pipes  are  laid,  and  the 
courts  properly  leveled  with  the  trap-rock 


Constructing  Dirt  Courts        23 

foundation,  a  three-inch  layer  of  coarse 
gravel  or  fine  broken  stone  should  be 
spread  over  the  surface.  This  must  be 
pounded  and  hammered  down  and  watered. 
The  water  will  tend  to  show  any  weak 
places  where  settling  is  liable  to  occur, 
and  the  depressions  thus  formed  must  be 
filled  up  with  fresh  material.  When  this 
layer  of  coarse  gravel  has  been  leveled, 
pounded,  and  settled,  the  top  layer,  of 
sandy  loam  and  clay  mixed,  should  be 
applied.  This  finishing  layer  should  be  at 
least  three  inches  thick,  and  four  or  five 
is  better.  Sandy  clay  and  loam  must  be 
mixed  for  the  top-dressing,  but  the  pro- 
portion of  each  depends  upon  the  nature 
of  the  clay.  If  the  clay  is  very  sticky  it 
will  require  more  sand.  It  needs  to  be 
sufficiently  porous  to  permit  the  water  to 
pass  through  easily,  and  yet  not  so  porous 
that  the  surface  is  too  soft.  If  there  is 
not  sufficient  sand  the  surface  will  be 
sticky  after  a  rainstorm.  For  ordinary 


24        Making  a  Tennis  Court 

purposes  one  part  of  fine  sand  to  four 
parts  of  clay  make  an  ideal  finishing  sur- 
face, but  sometimes  one  and  a  half  parts 
of  sand  have  to  be  used. 

When  the  finishing  surface  is  laid  it 
should  be  leveled  off  and  rolled  repeatedly. 
Watering  is  also  essential,  but  a  good  rain 
will  do  wonders  to  settle  the  surface. 
Faults  and  depressions  will  then  develop, 
and  they  can  be  corrected  by  filling  in  with 
new  material.  Also,  if  the  surface  is  found 
to  be  too  sticky,  add  a  little  more  sand 
to  the  top  and  work  and  roll  it  down.  It 
may  take  several  weeks  to  perfect  the  top 
surface  of  the  court  so  that  it  is  rain- 
proof. 


CONSTRUCTING  GRASS  COURTS 

FOR  garden  and  home  purposes  where 
tennis  is  played  only  by  members  of 
the  household  and  their  friends,  the  grass 
court  is  of  course  the  most  artistic  and 
beautiful.  The  dirt  or  clay  court  is  more 
satisfactory  for  clubs  where  constant  use 
is  apt  to  wear  off  the  turf.  If  the  green 
is  large  enough  for  shifting  the  court  fre- 
quently so  that  the  wear  will  not  all  come 
in  certain  spots,  the  turf  court  may  answer 
all  purposes  for  clubs  and  parks. 

If  the  natural  sod  of  the  site  selected 
for  a  grass  court  is  luxuriant  and  the  soil 
favorable  for  rapid  growth,  the  expense  of 
construction  may  be  very  slight.  If  the 
natural  sod  is  poor,  and  the  soil  thin,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  import  good  soil  and 
purchase  rich  grass  sod  from  some  farm 
25 


26         Making  a  Tennis  Court 

or  meadow.  If  the  grass  is  very  patchy, 
but  the  soil  rich,  it  may  be  satisfactory  in 
the  end,  and  certainly  cheaper,  to  remove 
all  the  sod  and  sow  down  to  grass  in  the 
late  summer,  and  repeat  it  early  in  spring. 
It  would  hardly  be  advisable,  however,  to 
use  the  court  much  the  first  year,  for  the 
young  grass  would  soon  be  worn  off  unless 
a  firm  sod  was  obtained. 

A  grass  court  is  the  best  to  play  on  in 
warm  weather.  The  green  of  the  lawn 
is  pleasing  and  restful  to  the  eyes,  and 
the  soft  turf  is  cooling  and  soft  to  the 
feet.  The  sweet  aroma  of  the  green  grass 
adds  to  the  pleasure  of  the  pastime,  and 
the  restful  slopes  and  terraces  invite  one 
to  lounge  on  the  greensward  after  or  be- 
fore a  game.  Dirt  courts,  concrete,  and 
asphalt,  and  even  wooden  courts,  may  ap- 
peal to  the  enthusiasts  intent  only  upon 
playing  the  fastest  game,  but  their  glaring 
whiteness  and  hard,  unyielding  surface  do 
not  bring  the  pleasure  that  grass  courts 


Constructing  Grass  Courts       27 

do.  For  these  reasons  the  turf  courts 
should  always  be  chosen  for  the  summer 
or  country  place,  and  they  should  be  con- 
structed and  developed  with  an  eye  to  their 
harmony  with  the  surrounding  landscape 
and  architecture  of  the  residence. 

The  construction  of  a  grass  court  is 
less  difficult  than  that  of  a  clay  court, 
but  if  the  soil  is  very  thick  and  heavy,  some 
sort  of  foundation  must  be  provided  to 
drain  the  under-soil.  On  very  unfavor- 
able soil,  tile  drains  are  sometimes  placed 
down  before  the  turf  is  replaced.  A  layer 
of  stones  six  inches  beneath  the  sod  is 
sometimes  resorted  to ;  but  usually  no  such 
provision  for  underground  drainage  is  re- 
quired for  the  grass  court.  If  side  and 
end  drainage  is  provided,  and  the  soil  is 
not  too  heavy,  water  will  not  collect  and 
remain  on  the  court  to  any  great  extent. 

The  construction  of  a  grass  court  is 
simple  when  no  attempt  is  made  to  drain 
it.  The  first  thing  to  do  is  to  lift  the  grass 


28         Making  a  Tennis  Court 

sod  as  carefully  as  possible  and  lay  it 
aside  for  later  use.  The  sod  should  be 
cut  down  as  nearly  to  six  inches  depth 
as  possible,  and  should  be  lifted  in  squares 
of  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches.  Pile  the 
sod  carefully  on  one  side  and  keep  moist 
and  partly  protected  from  the  hot  sun. 
When  the  sod  has  all  been  removed  spade 
up  the  soil  to  a  depth  of  eighteen  inches, 
removing  all  stones,  roots,  and  obstruc- 
tions. Rake  over  carefully  and  roll  down 
to  a  level,  watering  frequently  and  filling 
in  all  depressions.  When  a  perfect  level 
has  been  obtained  replace  the  grass  sods. 
These  must  be  put  down  carefully  so 
that  the  edges  meet  snugly.  Open  cracks 
and  seams  must  be  filled  in  with  smaller 
pieces  of  sod.  Roll,  water,  and  level  the 
surface  until  all  is  satisfactory.  Fresh 
sods  may  have  to  be  cut  and  placed  wher- 
ever thin  places  appear  during  the  first 
season.  In  the  spring  of  the  year  fresh 
grass  seed  may  be  sown. 


Constructing  Grass  Courts       29 

If  the  turf  or  grass  is  poor  it  will  be 
better  to  omit  sodding  entirely  and  sow 
the  surface  with  seed.  It  is  better  in  such 
a  case  to  make  the  grass  court  in  the  fall 
of  the  year.  The  winter  storms  will  settle 
it  thoroughly  and  reveal  weak  spots.  In 
the  middle  of  March  rake  up  the  surface, 
level,  sow  the  seed,  and  roll  carefully.  It 
should  be  sowed  twice  from  different  direc- 
tions, so  that  an  even  catch  is  obtained. 
Sowing  can  be  made  in  the  fall  or  spring. 
About  five  bushels  of  grass  seed  will  be 
needed  for  the  full-size  court.  Do  not 
use  clover  seeds  in  the  sowing,  nor  guano 
for  fertilizers.  When  the  grass  is  high 
enough  to  cut  use  the  scythe  or  sickle 
first,  and  keep  the  lawn-mower  for  later 
cutting.  Remove  weeds  as  fast  as  they 
appear,  uprooting  them,  or,  if  the  roots 
persist,  rub  salt  on  them.  When  the  grass 
is  tall  enough  for  regular  cutting,  use 
the  mower  at  least  once  a  week,  and  oftener 
in  wet  weather. 


30        Making  a  Tennis  Court 

In  many  localities  worms  are  very  nu- 
merous and  destructive  to  tennis  courts. 
By  working  up  to  the  surface  they  form 
little  mounds  and  holes  which  permit  water 
to  trickle  through  and  cause  depressions. 
In  regions  where  the  worms  are  a  great 
nuisance,  a  layer  of  finely  sifted  cinders 
is  placed  on  the  stone  foundation  of  the 
dirt  court  or  at  the  bottom  of  the  exca- 
vation of  a  grass  court.  These  cinders 
will  keep  the  worms  from  working  up,  but 
if  placed  on  the  grass  court  the  cinder 
layer  must  be  at  a  depth  of  a  foot  or  more 
below  the  surface,  so  as  not  to  interfere 
with  the  grass  roots. 

One  should  remember  that  grass  courts 
wear  out  more  rapidly  and  require  more 
care  than  those  of  dirt,  especially  when 
they  are  subjected  to  constant  usage. 

The  cost  of  making  tennis  courts  will 
vary  considerably,  as  one  may  readily  see. 
As  much  as  $200  and  $300  is  sometimes 
paid  for  making  tennis  courts,  but  others 


Constructing  Grass  Courts       31 

are  made  at  no  greater  cost  than  $25 
where  conditions  are  favorable  and  one 
is  willing  to  do  some  of  the  work.  The 
hardest  courts  to  make  are  dirt  ones  laid 
on  rocky  foundations  where  blasting  is 
necessary.  Grass  courts  that  are  nearly 
level  can  sometimes  be  made  by  removing 
only  a  part  of  the  sod  and  replacing  it 
after  digging  out  some  of  the  under  soil. 
This  may  cost  only  a  few  dollars. 


SIZES  AND  MARKING 

THE  playing  surface  of  a  tennis  court 
for  singles  is  £7  x  78  feet,  and  for 
doubles  36  x  78  feet ;  but  as  a  double  court 
contains  all  the  lines  for  singles  it  is  usual 
to  mark  out  for  doubles  at  the  beginning. 
Back  of  the  outer  line  there  must  be  a 
space  of  from  15  to  SO  feet  to  the  stop- 
nets,  and  at  the  sides  there  should  be  at 
least  6  feet,  preferably  10  or  IS  feet, 
beyond  the  line  of  the  double  court.  This 
permits  free  access  to  the  courts  on  either 
side  of  the  net,  and  also  allows  room  for 
players  when  volleying.  This  is  the  reason 
why  a  space  of  60  x  ISO  is  generally  con- 
sidered necessary  for  a  good  tennis  site. 
The  marking  of  a  court  must  be  exact. 
First  determine  the  position  of  your  net 
in  tke  middle  of  the  site,  and  then  lay 
out  the  single  court.  Place  two  pegs  tem- 
32 


-27- 


The  standard  dimensions  for  a  double  court  are  given. 
A  convenient  method  of  laying  these  dimensions 
out  is  given  in  the  accompanying  text 


34        Making  a  Tennis  Court 

porarily  in  the  ground  27  feet  apart  and 
make  a  line  there  to  represent  the  net. 
Then  measure  off  two  lengths  of  string — 
one  39  feet  long,  and  the  other  47  feet 
5  inches.  With  these  two  lengths  you 
can  make  your  courts  exactly  right. 

Lay  the  shorter  length  of  string  on  the 
ground  approximately  at  right  angles  to 
one  of  the  net  pegs ;  then  start  the  longer 
string  from  the  opposite  peg  and  run  it 
diagonally  across  until  it  reaches  the  end 
of  the  39-foot  string.  At  that  point  drive 
in  a  corner  peg.  You  have  a  right-angled 
triangle  that  is  absolutely  exact.  Repeat 
this  operation  to  get  the  other  corner, 
and  then  obtain  the  corners  for  the  other 
side  of  the  net  in  a  similar  way.  With 
the  corner  pegs  in  place,  proceed  then  to 
measure  off  from  the  net  peg  21  feet  on 
the  39-foot  line.  That  point  marks  the 
end  of  the  service  line,  and  a  straight  line 
drawn  across  it  will  intersect  in  the  middle 
the  diagonal  lines. 


Sizes  and  Marking  35 

For  the  double  courts  prolong  the  net 
line  4<  feet  6  inches,  and  join  this  to  the 
points  at  the  end  to  form  alleys.  The 
double  courts  are  then  finished  except  for 
the  central  line.  This  is  obtained  by  meas- 
uring off  the  middle  of  the  service  lines 
and  connecting  them  with  a  straight  line 
through  the  center. 

As  there  is  quite  a  little  bother  in  meas- 
uring off  the  courts,  it  is  quite  essential 
that  the  corner  points  be  made  permanent. 
Small  stakes  or  pegs  should  be  driven  into 
the  ground  at  the  corners  deep  enough 
so  they  will  not  trip  players.  Nearly 
every  heavy  rainstorm  washes  away  the 
lines  so  that  remarking  is  required.  On 
clay  courts  white  paint  is  sometimes  used 
for  marking,  as  this  will  last  longer  than 
whitewash,  but  at  the  best,  remarking  must 
be  done  quite  frequently.  Paint  is  not 
suitable  for  grass  courts  on  account  of 
the  injury  caused  to  the  grass  roots. 
Portable  white  marking  tape  is  sometimes 


36         Making  a  Tennis  Court 

used.  This  is  held  down  by  staples  and 
double-pointed  pins,  but  there  is  always 
the  danger  of  the  tape  tripping  a  player. 

Markers  have  been  devised  for  facilitat- 
ing the  lining  out  of  tennis  courts.  These 
consist  for  the  most  part  of  an  iron  or 
tin  receptacle  on  wheels,  with  a  marking 
wheel  in  front  on  which  the  contents  are 
sprayed  continually.  Marble  dust  or 
slaked  lime  can  be  used  in  these  markers. 
They  give  a  uniform  width,  and  one  can 
mark  off  the  lines  as  fast  as  he  can  walk. 
Home-made  markers  can  be  made  by  in- 
verting a  tin  can  and  closing  the  mouth 
except  for  a  tiny  hole  through  which  the 
liquid  can  flow.  An  ordinary  wheel  with 
a  flat  rim  one  inch  in  width  is  made  to 
revolve  in  front  of  the  mouth  of  the  can 
so  it  will  catch  the  drippings  of  the  liquid. 
Mounted  on  an  axle  with  handles  this  con- 
trivance is  pushed  before  the  operator. 

On  a  grass  court  none  of  these  methods 
of  marking  are  equal  to  grass  itself.  At 


Sizes  and  Marking  37 

the  time  the  seed  is  sown  on  the  court, 
plant  freely  in  some  part  of  the  garden 
the  seed  of  the  crested  dogtail  grass.  This 
grass  is  yellow  green  to  white,  and  if  sown 
very  thickly  it  will  serve  to  mark  the 
courts.  When  the  grass  on  the  court  is 
high  enough  for  cutting  transplant  the 
crested  dogtail  grass  to  the  lines  marked 
out. 

Mark  out  the  courts  exactly  with  tape 
or  string,  and  then  cut  out  on  one  side 
of  it  a  strip  of  sod  two  and  a  half  inches 
wide.  This  strip  is  then  filled  with  the 
sods  of  the  dogtail  grass  raised  in  the 
garden  for  this  purpose.  The  sod  should 
be  patted  down  firmly  in  place,  and  a  few 
seeds  of  the  dogtail  grass  sown  in  with  it. 
In  this  way  you  have  the  courts  marked 
out  permanently  by  grass,  and  the  contrast 
in  color  is  sufficient  for  all  playing  pur- 
poses. The  effect,  of  course,  is  very  strik- 
ing, and  far  ahead  of  the  courts  that  have 
to  be  whitewashed  after  every  rainstorm. 


38         Making  a  Tennis  Court 

The  dogtail  grass  is  a  hardy  grower, 
and  it  will,  if  not  controlled,  spread  out 
into  the  court  itself.  This,  however,  can 
be  prevented  by  an  occasional  weeding.  It 
must  be  kept  in  its  narrow  strip  even  if 
roots  have  to  be  pulled  up  at  times.  If  the 
spreading  roots  crowd  out  the  green  grass, 
the  latter  can  be  renewed  by  planting  a 
little  sod  from  some  other  part  of  the 
garden. 


BACKSTOPS  AND  NETS 

A  GREAT  variety  of  backstops  may  be 
introduced  on  the  tennis  courts,  and 
their  decorative  effects  should  always  be 
considered  in  laying  out  the  grounds.  The 
backstop  nets  should  be  at  least  15  feet 
back  of  the  court  line,  but  £1  feet  is 
considered  the  standard  distance  where 
tournaments  are  held.  Many  expert 
players  refuse  to  take  part  in  tournaments 
where  the  regulation  distances  are  not 
maintained.  The  wire  backstop  nets 
should  be  not  less  than  10  feet  high,  and 
15  feet  is  considered  the  most  suitable 
height. 

While   the  usual  backstop   is   made  of 

hollow  iron  posts  sunk  in  the  ground  at 

intervals  of  10  or  15   feet,  with  chicken 

or  fence  wire  stretched  taut  between  them, 

39 


40        Making  a  Tennis  Court 


it  is  not  unusual  to-day  to  find  more  elab- 
orate affairs  of  genuine  architectural 
worth  to  harmonize  with  the  residence  and 
other  buildings.  Pergola  effects  are  thus 
used.  The  posts  of  solid  wood  are  sunk 


1ZV 


Where  the  court  is  entirely  enclosed  by  the  stop-nets 
the  over-all  dimensions  may  well  be  those  given, 
but  they  should  not  be  smaller  than  60  x  120  ft. 

in  the  ground,  and  then  wrapped  with 
wire  netting  to  hold  the  stucco.  The  lat- 
ter is  applied  in  the  usual  way  and  finished 
off  in  white,  cream-white,  or  gray.  The 
wire  net  must  be  stretched  from  post  to 
post  before  the  stucco  is  applied.  Wooden 
beams  join  the  tops  of  the  stucco  columns, 


Backstops  and  Nets  41 

and  a  foot  molding,  with  sometimes  a  rail- 
ing, connects  the  posts  from  base  to  base. 
The  rather  elaborate  character  of  such 
tennis  backstops  cannot  always  be  worked 
out  by  a  novice,  although  a  good  carpenter 


/f                   12.0*  to    130'      3*        <£>> 

V 

; 

,        32'     i* 

A  saving  of  stop-nets  is  frequently  made  by  leaving 
open  spaces  at  the  sides 

or  mason  can  do  the  work  if  the  plans 
are  sketched  carefully  in  advance. 

The  plain  backstop  of  wire  net  and 
iron  posts  does  not  enhance  the  beauty  of 
the  lawn,  and  consequently  many  experi- 
ments have  been  made  to  eliminate,  so  far 
as  possible,  their  ugly  appearance.  Paint- 
ing the  whole  affair  a  grass  green  so  as 
to  render  it  as  inconspicuous  as  possible, 


42         Making  a  Tennis  Court 

is  one  way  of  partly  achieving  the  desired 
results.  Another  simple  and  more  satis- 
factory method  of  hiding  the  plain  back- 
stops is  to  utilize  the  things  which  nature 
furnishes  so  lavishly  for  us.  These  may 


/                  120'  to  130'             ]^Sj 

The  most  economical  form  of  stop-net  is  here  shown, 
although  it  will  not,  of  course,  stop  all  stray  balls 

be  growing  in  our  garden  or  found  ram- 
pant in  the  fields  and  woods,  climbing  over 
hedges  and  fences  and  reaching  to  the 
tops  of  trees. 

For  instance  the  wire  net  erected  at 
either  end  back  of  the  courts  can  be  con- 
verted into  screens  of  living  green  by 


Backstops  and  Nets  43 

planting  vines  on  the  outside,  or,  if  one 
prefers,  it  can  be  covered  with  the  climb- 
ing roses  to  make  it  a  glorious  color  effect. 
Better  even  than  the  ordinary  wire  net, 
an  artistic  screen  of  lattice  work  or  trellis 
can  be  erected.  This  can  be  covered  on 
the  back  with  almost  any  of  the  climbing 
vines.  Roses,  honeysuckle,  clematis,  trum- 
pet vine,  or  moon  flower  are  all  suitable 
for  this  purpose.  With  a  little  pruning 
and  training,  the  screen  can,  within  a  sea- 
son or  two,  be  converted  into  a  beautiful 
garden  ornament. 

A  grass  tennis  court  with  back  nets  to 
keep  the  balls  from  going  too  far,  covered 
with  climbing  vines  or  flowers,  adds  so 
much  to  the  appearance  of  a  garden  that 
other  improvements  are  sure  to  follow. 
A  series  of  rustic  benches  for  spectators 
should  be  arranged  on  the  west  side,  so 
that  they  can  watch  the  afternoon  game 
without  having  the  sun  in  their  eyes.  If 
the  land  is  rolling  and  hilly,  the  benches 


44        Making  a  Tennis  Court 

should  be  placed  on  a  terrace  at  one 
side. 

A  tea  house  of  suitable  character  is  a 
great  addition  to  a  tennis  court.  This 
may  be  nothing  more  than  a  rustic  cover- 
ing to  protect  the  heads  of  the  spectators, 
with  seats  and  a  rustic  table  for  serving 
the  tea.  If  it  is  built  on  a  terrace  on  the 
west  side  of  the  court  visitors  can  watch 
the  game  under  the  most  comfortable  cir- 
cumstances. 

Nets  of  a  great  variety,  from  plain, 
machine-made  twine  to  the  hand-made, 
double-knitted  cotton  ones,  canvas-bound 
at  top  and  bottom,  and  reinforced  at  the 
corners  and  middle,  may  be  had  to-day.  A 
strong,  durable  net  is  the  cheapest  in  the 
end,  and  there  will  be  less  trouble  from 
shrinking  and  stretching.  For  single 
courts  the  nets  are  27  feet  long  and  3  feet 
high,  and  for  double  courts  they  run  from 
36  to  42  feet  in  length. 

The  most  serviceable  posts  for  holding 


Backstops  and  Nets  45 

the  nets  in  position  are  those  made  with 
anchor  sockets,  which  are  permanently 
driven  in  the  ground.  These  spade-shaped 
iron  sockets  hold  the  posts  firmly  in  an 
upright  position  without  the  use  of  guy 
ropes.  When  the  posts  are  removed  from 
the  sockets  a  wooden  plug  is  inserted 
to  keep  dirt  from  collecting  in  them.  In 
addition  to  this  the  iron  posts  are  sup- 
plied with  tennis-net  reels  that  tighten  or 
loosen  the  net  as  demanded.  The  reels 
automatically  lock  to  hold  the  net  firmly 
in  position,  and  they  are  instantly  released 
by  moving  the  handle. 

Other  varieties  of  tennis  posts  can  be 
used  if  needed,  but  the  wooden  poles  sup- 
ported by  guy  ropes  and  pegs  are  the 
least  satisfactory.  The  pegs  are  con- 
stantly pulling  out  and  destroying  the  sod. 
Straight  iron  anchor  posts  are  better  than 
these.  They  are  driven  in  the  ground, 
and  by  means  of  triple  claw  clutches 
they  are  held  rigid.  In  place  of  the  iron 


46         Making  a  Tennis  Court 

center  forks  for  holding  the  middle  of 
the  net  at  the  regulation  three-foot  height, 
canvas  center  straps  are  now  preferred. 
The  canvas  straps  do  not  chafe  the  net, 
and  cannot  cause  the  ball  to  glance  off 
and  strike  out  of  court.  Another  method 
sometimes  used  for  holding  the  top  line 
of  the  net  straight  is  to  use  galvanized 
steel  cable  top  cords.  These  cords  are 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  with  metal 
loops  at  the  ends  and  manila  rope  ends 
to  fasten  to  the  posts.  They  keep  the 
net  from  sagging  in  the  middle.  Canvas- 
bound  nets  are  also  designed  to  keep  the 
top  firm. 


CARE  OF  COURTS 

A  WELL  made  court,  whether  of  clay 
or  turf,  is  an  achievement  to  be 
proud  of,  and  it  will  give  more  satisfaction 
than  any  other  one  thing;  but  it  is  essen- 
tial that  it  should  be  kept  in  prime  con- 
dition all  the  time.  Constant  watchful- 
ness and  attention  are  the  price  we  pay 
for  the  proper  maintenance  of  a  first-class 
tennis  court.  The  clay  court  will  degen- 
erate as  rapidly  as  a  macadam  road,  with- 
out proper  repairs,  and  the  turf  court 
will  lose  its  beauty  and  usefulness  much 
faster  than  a  green  lawn  if  not  attended 
to.  A  little  intelligent  care  given  to  the 
court  each  week  will  preserve  it  from  utter 
ruin,  which  must  inevitably  result  if  dam- 
ages are  not  repaired  at  once. 

The  clay  or  dirt  court  must  be  gone 
47 


48         Making  a  Tennis  Court 

over  about  every  second  day  to  fill  in  and 
roll  down  depressions  made  by  the  feet 
of  the  players.  On  courts  where  playing 
is  almost  continuous,  the  rule  is  to  make 
repairs  every  day  or  after  every  ten  sets 
have  been  played  on  them.  The  simplest 
and  most  effective  way  to  keep  a  clay 
court  in  repair  is  to  take  a  straight  log 
or  thick  piece  of  wood,  five  to  eight  feet 
in  length,  and  nail  to  it  coarse  bagging 
or  jute  cloth.  If  the  edges  are  frayed 
out,  so  much  the  better.  Attach  ropes 
to  either  end  of  this  log,  and  drag  it 
across  the  court  several  times.  The 
ragged  edges  of  the  cloth  will  smooth  out 
the  surface  and  work  the  dirt  into  holes 
or  depressions.  If  hard  ridges  or  lumps 
still  exist  these  must  be  loosened  by  hand 
or  a  hoe. 

After  the  drag  has  smoothed  out  the 
surface,  it  should  be  watered,  in  dry 
weather,  and  then  rolled.  A  good  hand 
roller  is  almost  essential  to  the  preserva- 


Care  of  Courts  49 

tion  of  the  court.  The  operator  should 
always  walk  in  front  of  the  roller  and 
not  behind  it.  The  rolling  should  con- 
tinue until  the  surface  is  rendered  en- 
tirely smooth.  After  the  rolling  the  wet 
surface  should  be  allowed  to  dry  before 
the  courts  are  marked  out  again. 

The  care  of  the  grass  court  must  de- 
pend a  good  deal  upon  how  much  it  is 
used  and  the  condition  of  the  weather. 
In  very  wet  seasons,  the  turf  is  soft  and 
spongy,  and  the  heels  of  the  players  cut 
deeper  into  it.  This  produces  slight  de- 
pressions that  may  in  time  increase,  so  as 
to  ruin  the  surface  if  not  attended  to  at 
once.  On  the  other  hand,  in  very  dry 
weather,  the  grass  is  more  easily  scoured 
and  killed,  and  there  must  be  frequent 
wetting  to  keep  the  turf  in  good  condition. 

The  grass  courts  should  always  be 
watered  at  night  after  the  play.  Any  time 
after  the  last  game  will  do,  although  about 
sun-down  is  a  good  time.  Cutting  should 


50         Making  a  Tennis  Court 

be  done  early  in  the  morning  after  the 
watering,  and  then  the  roller  should  be 
applied.  This  puts  the  court  in  fine  con- 
dition for  playing.  If  the  grass  is  cut 
in  the  morning  without  previous  watering 
at  night,  it  may  be  injured  by  the  hot  sun, 
especially  if  the  heavy  roller  is  applied. 
The  simple  rule  is:  water  at  night,  cut  in 
the  morning,  and  then  roll. 

All  bare  strips  of  grass  should  be  re- 
placed as  soon  as  possible  with  fresh  sod. 
Cut  out  the  old  sod  evenly  and  put  down 
good  new  sod  with  edges  fitting  snugly. 
Sometimes  new  seed  sown  occasionally  will 
answer  the  purpose,  but  not  in  the  spots 
where  the  feet  of  the  players  work  the 
greatest  damage.  If  many  deep  depres- 
sions have  been  made  by  the  feet  of  the 
players  in  wet  weather,  they  should  be 
filled  in  with  more  dirt  and  fresh  sod 
planted  and  tamped  down  firmly. 

Every  spring  the  grass  court  needs 
special  attention.  In  March  or  February 


Care  of  Courts  51 

all  extensive  repairs  should  be  made  to  the 
damaged  turf.  New  sod  should  be  put 
down  wherever  the  grass  is  poor  or  worn, 
and  if  fitted  snugly  in  place,  new  seed 
sown,  and  a  good  top-dressing  of  manure 
supplied,  the  court  should  be  in  fine  con- 
dition by  playing  time.  Of  course  regular 
manuring  should  be  done  in  the  fall  of 
the  year,  the  same  as  for  the  lawn,  and 
in  the  spring  it  should  be  raked  off  and 
the  surface  rolled.  Before  rolling,  how- 
ever, the  grass  should  be  swept.  Sweep- 
ing is  much  better  than  raking  even 
through  the  summer  season,  for  the  tines 
of  the  rake  are  apt  to  dig  up  the  grass 
roots. 

Sweeping  is  also  good  for  worm  casts, 
which  spoil  a  good  many  courts.  The 
broom  scatters  the  little  mounds  caused 
by  the  worms,  and  then  the  roller  smooths 
the  surface  so  that  no  irregularities  are 
apparent.  Some  sprinkle  lime  water  over 
the  places  where  the  worms  are  numerous. 


52         Making  a  Tennis  Court 

and  as  this  brings  them  squirming  to  the 
surface  they  are  swept  away  and  de- 
stroyed. 

It  goes  without  saying  that  all  tennis 
players  should  be  required  to  wear  rubber- 
soled  shoes  without  heels.  The  damage 
to  the  court  from  shoes  with  heels  is  some- 
times so  great  when  the  turf  is  soft  that 
it  will  take  half  a  season  to  repair  it. 
Where  tennis  courts  are  a  part  of  the 
general  lawn  a  horse  machine  may  be  used 
for  cutting  the  grass.  In  such  cases  the 
hoofs  of  the  horses  should  be  padded  to 
prevent  leaving  sharp  imprints  in  the 
turf. 

If  these  directions  for  keeping  a  tennis 
court  in  good  condition  are  faithfully  fol- 
lowed there  is  no  reason  why  a  first-class 
court  cannot  be  maintained  indefinitely  at 
little  expense.  It  may  be,  in  addition  to 
this  care,  that  a  little  work  in  exterminat- 
ing weeds  will  be  called  for  through  the 
growing  season.  Obnoxious  weeds  must 


Care?  of  ;pou*i+  $ 3-' , 

never  be  allowed  to  spread  and  get  a  foot- 
hold, or  they  will  crowd  out  and  kill  the 
finer  grass.  They  must  be  pulled  or  dug 
up  by  the  roots  as  fast  as  they  appear^ 
and  never  be  allowed  to  go  to  seed. 


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